Auctiva Store: Pure_Retro_Delights

Ok so ive been playing The adventures of link zelda 2 for a couple of weeks now on and off. I Have got quite far, further then i ever got as a kid :) im up to the area past the spider at the deserted town. Thing is i think i may of used a key in the wrong palace :( in the fourth palace a way back im unable to get to the boss im a key short and think i may of used a key from the fourth palace in the fifth! I was advised by a lady in the second towen not to do this!! any way i might have to start all over again and create a new charchter!! although i lve this game suppose it aint all bad :) I strongly recommended you use keys in there correct palace. also powering up when you get the chance the enemeies get alot stronger and harder as the game progresses the more powered up your sword life and magic si the easier it is.

There is quite a few differences between the super mario 3 american/uk version and the japanese version here are the differences: [edit] Japanese and U.S. version differences The following is a list of differences between the Japanese and North American versions of Super Mario Bros. 3.[4] Level start transitions Japanese version: When a level is selected on the Map screen, the screen is blanked with an iris fade-out, followed by an iris fade-in to display the level. North American version: The iris fade-in effect was replaced with a palette fade-in. World 1 Fortress, final area Japanese version: The final area of this Fortress has four higher spikes located below and to the right of the lower two. North American version: These four spikes were removed, the wall was extended two blocks to the left, and the door that goes to Boom Boom's room was moved one block to the right. King's castle throne room Japanese version: The castle throne room has three columns, the column shadows are to the right of the columns, the column beside the King is behind the stairs, Mario begins the level standing on the left side of the screen, the edge of the throne and tops of the stairs are light blue, the stairs are shorter, and the background is greenish-blue. North American version: There are only two columns, the column shadows were switched to the left, the column beside the King is in front, the chair edges and tops of the stairs are gold, the triangles in the background are a different size, Mario begins near the center of the screen, Toad has moved back a little, the stairs are longer, and the background color has changed colors slightly to light blue. Power-down Japanese version: Mario will revert to small Mario after taking a hit, no matter what power-up he has. North American version: If Mario takes a hit when he's Fire, Raccoon, or wearing one of the suits, he will return to being Super Mario rather than small Mario. Warp Whistle while riding a canoe Japanese version: the Canoe will be carried into the Warp Zone, and Mario will not be able to get back onto the Warp Island if he falls into the water of the Warp Zone. The only way he can continue is by using another Warp Whistle. North American version: No Canoe will be carried into the Warp Zone. Kuribo's Shoe Japanese version: When colliding with an enemy, Mario will lose the Shoe and will be reduced to small Mario if he is Super, Fire, Raccoon, or is wearing any of the other suits. North American version: Mario will only lose the shoe and still remain in the power-up condition he had when he got into the shoe. World 5-1 Japanese version: At the end of World 5-1, Mario reaches a wall with a pipe sticking out of it. Mario must enter this pipe to reach a different part of the level containing the goal card. North American version: The end of World 5-1 does not contain a wall or pipe. The dark ending portion of the level was moved to the spot previously occupied by the wall. This particular change was made in response to a glitch that occurred in the Japanese version when Mario reached the area containing the goal and proceeded to fly over the left-hand wall in this area. World 8 Battleships Japanese version: If Mario drops into the water and manages to do a trick to swim all the way to the right of the final pipe, he will not be able to get back up without a P-Wing because the wall is a single block too high. North American version: A block was removed at the very top of the right wall. Thus, even if Mario falls into the mud, he will be able to get back up and continue. (However, the block is present in Super Mario All-Stars.)

All of you experienced it, sooner or later. Even if you weren't graced with a good old front-loading NES yourself, you probably saw it at a friend's house while you were visiting to play Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles II: the dreaded blinking power light. Sometimes the blinking light would even manifest itself as the entire game flashing on and off. "Stop!" you would scream in your annoyed, prepubescent voice. "I wanna play my game!" But it would just sit there, mocking you with the first half-second of the game's boot cycle, over and over. The official cause of this problem, according to Nintendo, was dirty contacts on the game or in the machine. Temporary repair methods that various console owners came up with included the "isopropyl alcohol and Q-Tip" solution, the "temporarily mimicking a can of compressed air" solution, and the famous "hold reset while pressing the power button" solution (which actually didn't do anything to help this particular situation; it came about as the solution to a different problem, namely the battery backed-up RAM on cartridges being blown away on power down). But, try as one might to stave off eventual disaster, the problem would almost always get worse and worse until it would happen just about all the time, with any cartridge. What Nintendo didn't tell people was that, although dirt and dust were certainly contributing factors, the blinking light problem was actually exacerbated by a design flaw. First off, the slot that the cartridge's edge connector inserted into was made out of cheap alloys, causing them to corrode over time. This, however, was only part of the issue; the other part dealt with the very nature of the NES' manufacture. Since the NES was released in the United States after the great videogame market crash of the early 1980's, toy stores were loathe to carry anything that called itself a videogame. Thus, Nintendo designed the NES to mimic audiovisual equipment of the era; the system was a "Control Deck", not a "console", and the games were "Game Paks", not "cartridges". The games loaded through the front of the unit, like a VCR. And therein lay the crux of the problem. The user would load the game into the spring-loaded tray on the front panel, and push the game (and thus the tray) down, locking it into place. The force placed on the top of the game, however, caused the edge connector on the back to push up against the slot's fingers and bending them ever so slightly. This wasn't a problem for a few dozen, or even hundred, iterations of inserting and removing games; but after a few thousand times, those contacts would get bent just enough that they would no longer touch the cartridge as securely. (This also resulted in the strange behavior in some systems where a cartridge would work fine if you inserted it but did not press the tray down.) Nintendo corrected this oversight in future machines by putting a good-old top-loading slot in the NES 2 and Super NES, at which point the original NES had rejuvenated the home videogame market and "consoles" were no longer taboo. But that doesn't help the huge installed base of old NES owners who are stuck with tons of old games and a defunct system. The solution to this problem is to find a place that sells a replacement 72-pin connector for the NES -- not an easy task, although some specialty hobby and used game stores still carry them for a few bucks. Installing the new connector is relatively straightforward; there is no soldering required, as it simply plugs into its own slot on the NES motherboard. Once you do this, the system will be good as new, and it's absolutely astonishing how tight the NES will grip those games with a new connector installed! (Of course, the new connector will wear out slowly like the old one, but most new connectors are made from metals that won't corrode in the same fashion -- and, honestly, are you going to be shoving games into the system as much now as you did back then?) So dig out the screwdriver, rummage through the couch for spare change, fix that system and return to those two-dimensional, square wave-bleeping star-crossed days of yore. You'll be glad you did when you pop in your favorite old game, turn it on, and say, "Wow, I remember this being a lot cooler as a kid." But it'll be nostalgic just the same.

Having trouble completing Double Dragon 2? Heres a neat trick to Earn yourself some extra lives. Select 2 player mode B. As player 1 keep on beating up player 2, every time he losses a life you will gain a life, keep on doing this untill all his lifes are gone, this will make you end up with 6 lives, enough to see you through to the end?

Ok i would say i know every uk PAL NES game there is, but for instance the other day i noticed a Eric cantona's Goal 2 which was only realised in france it appears, also a smurfs game which was a european realised PAL game, these games that werent realised in the uk, still work on the uk system as it is also PAL, kinda cool i might look into finding a good european game that wasn't sold in the uk, i'll keep you updated.

People confusing Highly collectable with rare, really annoys me for example. Zelda probably the most common nes game other then the marios is very often described as being rare, this couldnt be any further form the truth as on average there is around 15 zelda's for the NES on at any given time. Even better still is the listers who are unaware all zelda's for the NES were gold in colour, and describe there item as "Gold zelda mega rare" Sorry for the whine, just really annoys me :)

Hi every week i will be adding a a tip/cheat/secret etc of NES games today's tip of the week is invincibilty. whilst doing the high jump trick press RIGHT on controller 2 while playing and jump into a pit, you do not die, and can walk around in it. Once in the pit, keep jumping in and out, and eventually your energy will drain but you will still be alive. now you are invincible. Jump out of the pit and your enrgy will stay down... you do not need to keep holding RIGHT on C2. Note: If you pick up any energy items or use an Energy Tank, you will no longer be invincible...and you can still die if you fall on spikes. If you have trouble using it, try releasing RIGHT once you are in the pit for a second. may take a few attempts to get this to work. Keep on checking for the next tip of the week

04.01.08 I had been contemplating selling my complete Mega Man 3 ( a favourite from my personal collection) for about 6 months, 2 days ago i had a moment of madness and put it up for sale on Ebay via online auction, i estimated the price of this game at around £20-£35.with 9 days to go the price has got up to £6.50 which is a good start and shows the game has alot of interest already. Hope the winning bidder enjoys this rare complete classic :) Edit: game sold for £26 which is about the right price for this game, look out for Mega Man the original being sold soon